This
picturesque village is 6 kms west of Padum, on the road to Kargil. The chief
attraction here is the castle like monastery which, unlike other monasteries
of the region, is built on level ground. By legend its initial foundation is
associated with Kanishka on account of the Kanika Stupa which stands in the
backyard of the walled complex. The main building comprises a huge
multi-columned central prayer hall housing an array of statues of popular
Buddhists divinities and Drugpa (Old Schools) high saints. The most
interesting frescoes, however, can be seen in a small, almost discarded
chapel at the back of the main building, whose walls are adorned with stucco
murals depicting landscapes and floral designs based on the life of
Padma-sambhava. Adjoining this monastic complex is an old cemetery
surrounded by a ring of ancient rock carving which reflect Indian artistic
influence. Sani
is also associated with Naropa, the famous Indian yogi from Vikramsila, who
is said to have sat in meditation for some time under the Kanika Stupa. The
site is now occupied by a small room housing a veiled bronze figure of the
Yogi, which is unveiled, once a year in late July. A 2-day long festival is
held to celebrate this occasion, which is attended by people from far, and
wide monks from Bardan Monastery perform masked dances as ritual offering.
How to Reach? The 240 km
long Kargil-Padun road, of which the first 90 km stretch is paved, remains
opened from around mid July to early November. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can
also be hired at Kargil. During June and early July, prior to opening of the
road, it is recommended to walk into Zanskar from panikhar or Parkachik
onwards. In June, the summer is at its height in the region and the climate
is ideal for trekking along the route free from vehicular traffic of any
kind and when the countryside is freshly rejuvenated into life after months
of frigid dormancy.
