By
far the most spectacularly located monastic establishment anywhere in
Ladakh, The Phugthal complex spills out of the mouth of a huge cave high up
in the sheer mountain face of a lateral gorge through which a major
tributary of the southern Lungnak (Lingti-Tsarap) River flows. Perhaps, the
most isolated monastic establishment of Zanskar, its foundation date back to
the early 12th century ; at least one old chappel, among the several several
of which it is composed, has frescos and ceiling decorations reflecting
strong Indian artistic and iconographic influence. Phugthal is accessible
from the Padum-Manali trekking route through a 7 km long trail that branches
off from the Purney Bridge on the main trail. A visit to Phugthal, including
Bardan and Muney monasteries enroute, makes a good 5-days round trek from
Padum. Alternatively, one can add one extra day to Padum-Manali trekking
itinerary to include a day-return visit to this unique monastic
establishment inhabited by a resident community of about 40 monks. How
to Reach? The 240 km long Kargil-Padun road, of which the first 90
km stretch is paved, remains opened from around mid July to early November.
The J&K SRTC operates a thrice weekly B-class bus service from Kargil.
However groups can charter A-Class or even Super-Deluxe buses to visit
Zanskar, including the interior places of interest like Stongdey, Zangla and
Karsha. Jeeps and Gypsy taxis can also be hired at Kargil. During June and
early July, prior to opening of the road, it is recommended to walk into
Zanskar from panikhar or Parkachik onwards. In June, the summer is at its
height in the region and the climate is ideal for trekking along the route
free from vehicular traffic of any kind and when the countryside is freshly
rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy.
